Blood, Bones, & Butter is really two books. The first two thirds of the book is about Gabrielle Hamilton’s journey from childhood to Prune chef/owner. The remainder is about her unhappy marriage. The former was amazing. The latter shouldn’t have…
Author: mike
Intensity of flavor
Most cooks will know to agree that “Intensity of flavor is important.” It just sounds delicious. But I haven’t come across an instructional cookbook that explains why exactly it’s important or how it’s achieved. I think I’ve learned something about…
March cooking
I did a bad job writing down meals this month. I got in a funk and forgot to write down the first missing block. The second set, more reasonably, is missing due to vacation and Easter weekend (the in-laws hosted).…
Beef “stew”
I was short with some of the details in my post on stocks. I thought I’d elaborate here on a new (for me) approach to stews. My current issue with stews and braises is that the meat is too cooked.…
How I brought stock-making into my regular cooking
For my money, the big question in home cooking is, “How do I get on a roll?” Anyone can make a great dinner one night. A productive home cook makes good food every night. This entails a system, a way of…
“What’s a typical dinner in the Pépin household?”
From an interview, here: Well, last night we had asparagus, which I steamed in a skillet, and a piece of salmon that I cooked skin side down in a very hot pan. I cook it on one side for about…
Margins for error
As much as I wish it weren’t true, I cook proteins inconsistently. Lack of repetitions must matter. Amassing repetitions is exactly how restaurant cooks learn to cook consistently. In other words, practice makes perfect. The corollary is that it would…
“Shoot One, Please”
The New York Times put up an “Op-Doc” on hunting, occasioned by the Youth Firearms Deer Hunt in New York. The documentary features a 15-year-old. He’s accompanied on the hunt by his older brother and father. Based on votes, the…
“Sous vide” at home
I’ve been asked if low-temperature methods are practical and affordable for home cooks. They are indeed both.
February cooking
On missing the farm stand and the benefits of keeping a cooking log.